The Birkin Effect

The Birkin Effect

Hermès: A Heritage of Artisanal Excellence and Innovation

Established in Paris in 1837 by Thierry Hermès, the Hermès brand originated as a workshop dedicated to crafting high-quality harnesses and equestrian accessories. Over the course of nearly two centuries, Hermès has transformed into one of the most prestigious maisons in the global luxury industry, while remaining under continuous family stewardship. Central to its evolution is a deep-rooted commitment to artisanal expertise, combined with a capacity to adapt to the shifting demands of modern society. Each successive generation has upheld the brand’s core values: precision, creativity, and refinement, thus expanding its repertoire from leather goods to include silk, ready-to-wear fashion, fine jewellery, and, more recently, beauty.

Their global prominence was further cemented under the leadership of Jean-Louis Dumas, who spearheaded international expansion and the creation of some of the house’s most enduring symbols…including the Birkin bag. Emerging from a serendipitous encounter in 1984, the Birkin exemplifies Hermès’ synthesis of function, form, and cultural cachet, and remains one of the most coveted objects in contemporary fashion.

This article follows the Sotheby’s auction of Jane Birkin’s original bag earlier in the month, with the gavel striking the rostrum at a record-breaking £10.1 million, and the wider impact of luxury handbags on the secondary market.

The Singular Prototype: Jane Birkin’s Original Bag

Drawing inspiration from the sac Haut à Courroies (Hermès’ original equestrian carryall), the original Hermès Jane Birkin prototype blended practicality with personal expression in a way that commercial iterations would later refine. Notably, none of the seven unique features present in Jane Birkin’s first bag are found together in any subsequent Birkin model.

The prototype's singular status is marked by seven specific design features:

1. Shoulder Strap
   The prototype uniquely featured a fixed shoulder strap, absent from all standard Birkin models.
2. Size
   Its dimensions combined the height and width of a Birkin 35 with the depth of a 40, creating a hybrid silhouette.
3. Hardware
   Early brass hardware was used instead of the gold-plated options that later became standard.
4. Metal Rings (Pontets)
   The bag included closed metal rings, a design element phased out in later Birkins.
5. Bottom Studs
   The protective feet were noticeably smaller than those on production models.
6. Zipper
   It was fitted with an Éclair zipper, predating Hermès’ exclusive use of Riri hardware.
7. Initials
   The front flap was stamped with “J.B.,” making the bag personally identifiable.

Beyond the Original: Notable Birkin Sales at Catherine Southon

While subsequent Birkins no longer replicate her prototype's hybrid proportions, hardware, or integrated strap, they continue to represent exceptional craftsmanship and enduring appeal. At Catherine Southon Auctioneers we have been privileged to offer several remarkable examples of this iconic handbag.

• A 2007 Hermès Birkin 30 in golden brown ostrich leather with gilt-toned hardware and original accessories (hammer price: £10,500). Sold June 2021

• A 2009 Birkin 30 in white Veau Swift leather with gold-tone hardware and full provenance (hammer price: £6,500). Sold June 2021

• A Birkin 25 in Rouge H Togo leather with gold-coloured hardware and complete accessories (hammer price: £6,000). Sold July 2023

The Rise of Luxury Handbags in the Secondary Market

Hermès remains at the forefront of collector demand, with Birkin and Kelly bags commanding impressive prices due to their exclusivity, craftsmanship, and ever-evolving colour palettes. Exclusivity and lengthy waiting lists for new models have only intensified the appeal of well-preserved, second-hand examples.

Iconic designs such as the Chanel 2.55 continue to attract fervent bidding, as do high-quality vintage pieces from Louis Vuitton, Dior, and other leading houses.

• A black lambskin Chanel 2.55 flap bag (hammer price: £2,500). Sold July 2023.

• A Louis Vuitton limited edition pink alligator trim monogram multicoloured Marilyn bag (hammer price: £1,200). Sold June 2021.

• A Christian Dior black patent leather medium Lady Dior bag (hammer price: £1,000). Sold November 2023.

With a market shaped by rarity, condition, and provenance, clients have trusted our expertise to auction their accessories to their highest potential. There has never been a better time to enter your luxury accessories into our upcoming Jewellery, Watches & Luxury Accessories auctions.